ドイツ・リーザー川　火山群の渓谷を漕ぐハンモックキャンプ & パックラフティング | パックラフト・アディクト #79

Paddling the Lieser River: A Packrafting Journey through the Eifel

At the end of April this year, my friends Harold, Remi, Volker, and I set out on a packrafting adventure down the Lieser River in Germany.

The Lieser, a tributary of the Moselle River, winds through the scenic Volcanic Eifel region, starting near the town of Daun and flowing southwest through Manderscheid before eventually joining the Moselle near Wittlich. The river carves a deep valley through ancient volcanic landscapes, offering both serene and enjoyable paddling experiences.

Our plan was to start in Manderscheid and paddle to Wittlich in two days. Originally, Harols and I were hoping to get there on Thursday, camp at a campsite, and paddle a different river on Friday before meeting Remi and Volker on Saturday to paddle the Lieser. However, due to heavy rainfall and our busy schedules, we decided to skip the Friday paddle. Still, Harold and I arrived a day early on Friday, as the long journey from the north of the Netherlands would have been too exhausting if we left on Saturday morning. Unlike us, Remi and Volker, living in the south of the Netherlands, could reach the area much faster.

Having arrived in the early afternoon, Harold and I went to the planned campsite, only to find it overcrowded with teenagers and the tent areas muddy. Unable to find anyone to check us in, we decided to explore the nearby town of Manderscheid and check out the put-in point for the next day’s paddle. Manderscheid is a historic town known for its two castles — the Oberburg (Upper Castle) and Niederburg (Lower Castle). These castles, perched on cliffs above the river, provide a dramatic backdrop as the Lieser meanders through the valley below. The town once thrived as a spa destination, with its mineral water believed to have healing properties, it serves more as a gateway to the natural beauty of the Eifel region.

After finding a free parking spot near the municipality building, we took a short walk down to the river, passing by the upper castle. The castle keep was open, allowing us to climb up and enjoy a panoramic view of the area. The Lieser River meandered beneath the castle, carving through a deep valley. The hiking trail along the Lieser is considered one of the most beautiful in Germany, with numerous shelters and scenic spots to rest.

After exploring the castle ruins, we headed down to the river, where we found a spot what looked perfect for our put-in, with a small bridge providing access to the other side. With the day drawing to a close, we decided against returning to the crowded campsite and instead found a shelter to spend the night. The shelter offered a stunning view over the valley, with the sun setting in the distance. The newly awakened spring nature, with flowers pushing through the previous year’s brown leaves, made the landscape feel almost magical.

Harold and I had a feast of a dinner and I hung my hammock under the roof. Despite the wind and occasional rain, it felt cozy inside the shelter. The night was relatively mild, though we still needed our hats in the morning. (Meanwhile, Remi and Volker, driving from the south, had to contend with unexpected snow in the Belgian uplands — not the most common occurrence for late April.)

On Saturday morning, Harold and I drove to Wittlich, where we enjoyed breakfast at a lovely café before meeting up with Remi and Volker. The logistics of our trip were straightforward – with two cars, we left one at the take-out point in Wittlich, packed everything into the other, and travelled back to the put-in point in Manderscheid.

Our put-in point was at the foot of the upper castle, across from the lower one. The previous day, we had noticed many people in the area for via ferrata, and the local information center even rented out equipment for these climbing routes, one of which started at the base of the castle cliff above the river.

Despite the recent rainfall, the river level was relatively low, and a small rapid near the footbridge where we planned to start looked too shallow to run without risking damage to our boats. We decided to bypass it and hoped for more rapids downstream.

As we began paddling, the weather turned out to be much warmer than expected, thanks to the sun breaking through. I even had to remove a layer from under my dry suit. The Lieser River winds through a deep, forested valley, with steep banks, sometime resembling a gorge. We encountered a number of fallen trees blocking our path, forcing us to either portage our packrafts or squeeze underneath the trunks, navigating with a mix of acrobatics and determination. The hiking trail remained close by, with a score of footbridges crossing the river, but we didn’t see any other people. Perhaps it was too early in the season or the weather wasn’t inviting enough – even though we had luck with the sun, the forecast promised more rain.

The river itself wasn’t particularly challenging, giving us plenty of time to chat and enjoy each other’s company. This was my first time paddling with Volker, though Remi had met him during a Benelux meetup. As usual, Remi, Harold and I caught up on the latest news while paddling. We found a sunny spot for lunch, where we relaxed in the warmth of the spring sun, sharing our food and soaking in the scenery. The valley, while deep and canyon-like at times, occasionally opened up, offering breathtaking vistas.

After about four hours of paddling, we found a perfect campsite next to a pine forest. Though it was still a bit early, the spot was ideal, especially for me, as I had brought my hammock. The sun was still high, but we knew it would soon set, and we didn’t want to venture too far, as the landscape would become less wild and more populated further downstream.

It’s interesting how different people prioritize different comforts on a paddling trip. For me, a small inflatable pillow is a must-have luxury, though I can make do without it if necessary. Volker, on the other hand, brought a lightweight folding camping chair, which looked especially comfy that evening. He took it from his tizip as if a magician – a small package of comfort. I was so impressed that I bought a similar chair for myself when I returned home, though I doubt I’d take it on longer trips where I have to carry everything.

That evening, as we sat eating and talking, we had an unexpected visitor—a little grey field mouse. It seemed entirely unafraid of us, scurrying back and forth, gathering leaves and stalks for its nest. I left a bit of cheese in front of its hole, curious to see if the old stereotype about mice and cheese was true. Surprisingly, the mouse ignored the cheese, perhaps preferring its natural diet of greens.

When the time came, we retired to sleep. Sleeping in a hammock is something I’ve come to enjoy more and more. It doesn’t take up much more space than a tent, but it offers a great night’s sleep. The pine forest, with its soft, moss-covered ground, felt like a carpet underfoot. The night was warmer than the previous one, and I slept soundly, lulled by the gentle sway of the hammock.

The next morning, after a quick breakfast (the cheese was still untouched), we continued our paddle. Though the distance remaining wasn’t long, we needed to finish early to make the journey home. The character of the river changed slightly, becoming broader with fewer sharp turns. The weather had turned cloudy, and the lack of sunshine dampened my enjoyment of this final stretch.

We also began to see more signs of human activity, including a small dam that we decided to portage around. We could have run it, but it looked shallow, and we didn’t want to risk damage to our packrafts. I’d heard horror stories of people encountering hidden dangers like metal wires in such dams, so we played it safe. Even so, the trip was not completely ‘damage-free’ – we had a few minor punctures that required quick repairs—a routine part of packrafting that no longer phases me.

By the time we reached Wittlich, we had paddled around 25 kilometres over two days. It wasn’t the longest trip I’ve done, but it was undoubtedly an enjoyable one. The combination of beautiful scenery, good company, and the thrill of being back on the water made for a memorable experience. I’m already thinking about returning with my family. We visited the area last October and loved it, and I’m confident my wife and daughter would enjoy paddling the Lieser River as much as I did.