アイスランド縦断ハイキング 575km / 18 days by ホイットニー・ラ・ルッファ #05

Icelandic Traverse Part 5
Start Landmannalauger
End Porsmork/Basil Hut & Campground
Total Distance 55km

The Laugavegur trail is Iceland’s most popular multi-day hike, and for good reason. This 55km trek showcases a stunning landscape of incredible mountains and valleys painted in a kaleidoscope of colors. Set in an active volcanic region, it features abundant geothermal features, spectacular rivers, and deep canyons. Its accessibility from Reykjavik via a four-hour bus ride to Landmannalauger makes it particularly appealing to international hikers, though this convenience comes with crowds and tour groups sharing the trail.

For years, the three of us had dreamed of hiking this otherworldly landscape, viewing images online and on social media. Our journey began with a humble breakfast at the hut – in my case, ramen noodles with peanut butter, a meal that earned disapproving comments from a tour group member enjoying their lavish spread of eggs, bread, butter, and pork chops.

We started hiking with a forecast for light rain showers and minimal wind. However, within 2km, we faced hard rain and strong winds that turned to wet snow as we gained elevation. Despite the brutal weather, the landscape kept us distracted – at least initially. We passed massive obsidian boulders, active sulfur vents, bubbling volcanic springs, and soil tinted with various mineral elements.

As we climbed higher, we found ourselves hiking in clouds. The conditions deteriorated, soaking us thoroughly, particularly our hands. The trail presented significant challenges: narrow paths with steep drops, slippery rhyolitic mud, and fog that limited visibility. We pushed on toward a hut at the summit, but by the time we reached it, my layers were damp, and my morale was at an all-time low. The warden directed us to use the emergency shelter, where we joined an Italian tour group we’d been leap-frogging with.

In that shelter, I broke down, frustrated at hiking in one of the world’s most beautiful areas, yet barely able to see the landscape. Mike helped me recover, getting me into dry gear and making a hot drink. As I warmed up, my spirits lifted for the next section. The weather improved as we descended toward Alftavatn Lake, crossing a cold creek with a safety cable before making a long descent to the lake itself.

After a quick stop at the lake hut, we tackled one final ridge to reach Hvanngliff Hut. The green landscape against the dark sky created a dramatic scene as we finished our day. We had a large bunk room to ourselves, where we dried our gear and replenished calories, the warm shelter providing perfect relief from the day’s challenges.

The second day began with a pleasant valley hike between volcanic cinder cones covered in greenery. At the next hut, we experienced true trail magic when a tour group’s cook offered us unlimited portions of leftover lamb stew – a welcome feast for our depleted food bags. Energized, we made quick work of the remaining terrain, crossing a glacial river and several canyons before reaching Porsmark and the trail’s end.

However, we faced one final challenge: crossing a swollen glacial river to reach Basar Hut. After an unsuccessful hour searching for a safe crossing point upstream, we returned to Porsmark, where a kind 4×4 bus driver offered us a ride across the raging waters. The skilled driver navigated the crossing despite water pushing against the vehicle’s sides.

We ended our day at the Basar campground, where the restaurant owners treated us with remarkable kindness – offering complimentary appetizers, charging our electronics, and serving us a feast of cold beers, lamb burgers, and pizza. It was our first proper meal since leaving Myvatan twelve days earlier. With full stomachs and high spirits, we retreated to our tents, ready for our final day and the bus to Reykjavik tomorrow.
Though the Laugavegur challenged us with harsh weather and difficult conditions, its extraordinary landscape and the kindness we encountered along the way made it a truly memorable experience.